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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.