The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.
A serendipitous meeting during a tube journey in 1988 altered the course of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.
"That era was the zenith of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."
While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is in good company. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."
Shifting Attitudes
This shift is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the reaction against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the Blair era, today a more divisive political personality looms as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an symbol of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.
According to Enninful, the antidote has consistently been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of prominent faces from music.
"People with a voice should wield it," he comments, discussing those editorial decisions. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this moment will pass."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I was not even aware what that was."
Those early experiences would shape a pioneering career marked by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.
"Ignoring large portions of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since moving on from his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "disruptor".
"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a unique perspective between worlds."
In contrast to the caricature of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and radiates serenity. His life has involved challenges, including publicly shared battles with depression and addiction.
He has also endured significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
A Foray into Curation
This drive to fit into a box has inspired him away from the realm that established him. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.
"The establishment sometimes neglected to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they lacked the traditional credentials," he comments.
The magazine 72 itself functions with a different business model, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."
An Unstoppable Drive
Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.
What would the Edward of the 90s make of the man he has become? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."
